Why do so many fridges “almost” fit?

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Delivery paths and doorway clearances are where fits usually fail.

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You measure the width, height, depth, pick the style you like, and the delivery truck still ends up parked in your driveway while someone removes the front door. It happens far more than you’d think. Retailers consistently warn that the delivery path and hinge-side clearance are the top reasons installs get delayed or fail, not the fridge’s headline dimensions (Home Depot measurement guide).

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A mate in Auckland rang me after his brand-new French door wouldn’t make the turn into a galley kitchen. The unit fit the cavity perfectly, but a 10 mm run of architrave on the hallway corner was the villain. He paid for a second visit and a chippie to trim the architrave. Close enough is not good enough with fridges.

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Here’s the curveball: measuring the fridge is not the job. Measuring the home is.

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What are you actually measuring?

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Most people fixate on the fridge’s width, height, and depth. That is only half the picture. Fridges live in four dimensions: the cavity, the path into the room, the air they need to breathe, and the arc their doors and drawers travel. Think of it like parking a ute in a tight garage. It’s not just the ute’s length. It is the driveway angle, the door opening, the clearance to the walls, and whether you can still open the doors once you are in.

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Traditional logic says “if the numbers match, it fits.” That is how you end up with crisper bins that cannot slide out, doors that bang into a wall, and compressors that run hot because the cabinet is starved of air.

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Better questions to ask:

Can I physically get the fridge from the street to the cavity without removing doors or railings?
With the doors at 90 degrees, do drawers, bins, and shelves clear nearby walls and islands?
What ventilation does my exact model require on the sides, back, and top?

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What does the data say about clearances and fit?

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There is a simple reason so many installs disappoint: brand clearance specs are not uniform, and the “depth” you see on a product page rarely accounts for the space the fridge actually uses in your kitchen.

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Ventilation minimums vary a lot. Samsung lists about 25 mm at the back and at least 10 mm on sides and top for many models, while Whirlpool often calls for 6 mm at sides and top and extra space next to a wall for door swing. LG’s general advisory notes up to 100 mm around the cabinet, although individual manuals may differ (Samsung support, Whirlpool installation support, LG USA support).
“Depth with door open 90 degrees” and “width with doors open 90 degrees” are the numbers that collide with walls and islands, not the cabinet depth. These appear on spec sheets across brands, including GE Appliances (GE Appliances spec pages).
Hinges can add roughly 20 to 25 mm in height beyond the cabinet, which is why measuring to the lowest under-cabinet point matters (Home Depot guide).
Counter depth does not mean perfectly flush. Most counter-depth models still sit a little proud of the cabinetry once doors and handles are included, because the case is shallower but doors have to clear the gaskets and shelves (Consumer Reports, Whirlpool).

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The cost of getting it wrong is not just money. It is the time lost to re-deliveries, scratched benchtops, and the daily annoyance of doors that never quite open far enough.

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How bad does a near miss feel in real life?

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Picture a Saturday afternoon install in a Sydney terrace. The fridge makes it through the front door on a trolley, just. The crew muscles it down a narrow hall, only to find the kitchen island is 40 mm too close. They swing the unit into the cavity and it looks brilliant until the left door smacks the wall 5 cm before 90 degrees. The vegetable bin will not come out. The kids cannot reach the water dispenser because the door has to be held half open. Every dinner time you hear the thunk of door on wall and feel a little pang of “we should have checked that.”

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Flip the story. You planned a hinge-side gap, pulled the fridge forward 40 mm to compensate, and verified the 90-degree depth against your island. Doors open smoothly, bins slide out, and the compressor runs quietly because it has room to breathe. Your kitchen works like it should, and you get that quiet satisfaction every time you cook.

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What’s the smarter way to choose and measure?

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Use the PATHS framework. It keeps you out of trouble.

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P Path: map the delivery route, including exterior doors, hallways, turns, and any trim. Confirm whether doors and handles can be removed on the appliance if needed (Home Depot, Samsung).
A Aperture: measure the opening at top, middle, and bottom for width, and to the lowest obstruction for height. Record the smallest number and deduct required clearances from the manual (Home Depot).
T Thermals: add the ventilation space your exact model asks for at the sides, top, and back. This protects cooling performance and noise (Samsung, Whirlpool, LG).
H Hinges: check the hinge-side wall clearance, plus “depth with door open 90 degrees” and “width with doors open 90 degrees” against walls and islands. Some models use zero-clearance hinges, but not all (GE Appliances, LG).
S Services: confirm a 230 to 240 V, 10 A outlet within reach and a cold-water connection if you want ice and water. Aim for a shutoff within about 1.8 m and adequate pressure, typically 30 to 120 psi, which is about 207 to 827 kPa (GE Appliances, Home Depot). Most fridges are designed for indoor temperatures roughly 13 to 43°C. If it is for a garage or sleepout, choose a model rated for wider ranges (Whirlpool).

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Check a model’s 90-degree open depth against nearby islands and walls.

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How do you nail the purchase, step by step?

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\n Know the typical size envelope by style, then check the spec sheet\n Typical external ranges vary by model. Always verify the spec sheet for your exact unit.\n
- Top-freezer: about 710 to 840 mm wide, 1550 to 1675 mm high, 710 to 890 mm deep (KitchenAid).
- Bottom-freezer: about 610 to 840 mm wide, 1650 to 1750 mm high, 610 to 840 mm deep (KitchenAid).
- Side-by-side: about 760 to 915 mm wide, 1700 to 1780 mm high, 740 to 890 mm deep (Maytag).
- French door: about 760 to 915 mm wide, 1700 to 1780 mm high, 740 to 890 mm deep (Maytag).
- Counter-depth case depth: roughly 610 to 760 mm without handles. Doors usually still sit slightly proud of cabinets (Whirlpool, Consumer Reports).
- Undercounter, front-vented: roughly 860 mm high, 510 to 610 mm wide, 460 to 660 mm deep (KitchenAid).
- Built-in or pro: commonly 914, 1067, or 1219 mm wide, about 2134 mm high, about 635 to 660 mm deep (Monogram).
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Key spec-sheet terms to look for:
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- Depth without doors or handles, sometimes called cabinet depth.
- Depth with door, with and without handles.
- Depth with door open 90 degrees.
- Width with doors open 90 degrees.
- Height to top of hinge versus top of cabinet (GE Appliances spec pages).
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\n Decide between standard depth, counter depth, built-in, or undercounter\n
- Standard depth: best capacity per dollar, expect the doors to project beyond the counter line (Consumer Reports).
- Counter depth: cleaner look, case is shallower yet the doors usually still sit a little proud. Capacity may be lower at the same width (Whirlpool).
- Built-in or pro: tall, shallow case that aligns with cabinetry, fixed widths and bespoke installation requirements (Monogram).
- Undercounter: ensure the model is front-vented, especially inside closed cabinetry (KitchenAid).
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\n Measure once, plan twice\n
- Delivery path: measure the narrowest doorway and the tightest turn. Compare to the unit’s maximum width and depth, and confirm if doors or handles can be removed to reduce dimensions during delivery (Home Depot, Samsung).
- Opening: measure width at three heights, height to the lowest obstruction, and depth from wall to counter front. Subtract baseboards or splash thickness and then subtract the brand’s required clearances. The number you are left with is your maximum appliance size (Home Depot, GE Appliances).
- Doors and drawers: compare your island or walls to the fridge’s 90-degree open depth and width. If a wall is on the hinge side, reserve roughly 50 to 65 mm, or plan to pull the unit forward to compensate. Zero-clearance hinges help but are model-specific (GE Appliances, LG).
- Utilities: verify outlet position and cord reach. For ice and water, check the shutoff is within about 1.8 m and pressure meets the manual. Leave gentle slack in the line so the fridge can be pulled out for service (GE Appliances, Home Depot).
- Environment: most full-size fridges are designed for climate-controlled spaces. If you are going in a garage, look for models marked garage-ready with wider operating temperatures (Whirlpool).
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\n Avoid the common gotchas\n
- Forgetting trim and skirting steals 10 to 20 mm from the space you thought you had (Home Depot).
- Not planning hinge-side clearance leads to bins that will not remove at 90 degrees (GE Appliances).
- Overlooking ventilation hurts performance and noise. Samsung, Whirlpool, and LG list different minimums. Use your model’s manual as the final word (Samsung, Whirlpool, LG).
- Misunderstanding counter depth. Doors and handles usually sit slightly forward of cabinetry (Consumer Reports).
- Outdoor or garage placement without the right rating can cause poor cooling in cold winters or hot summers (Whirlpool).
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\n Get the install right on the day\n
- Electrical: standard AU and NZ wall outlet, 230 to 240 V, 10 A. Do not run cords across walkways.
- Water: 1/4 inch, 6.35 mm approved tubing kit. Keep extra slack so the fridge can move out for cleaning and service. Pressure typically 207 to 827 kPa if you want ice and water (GE Appliances, Home Depot).
- Level: left to right level, with the front set slightly higher than the back so doors self-close (Samsung).
- Final checks: confirm doors open fully, drawers clear, and you can remove crispers without moving the unit.
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\n Use this quick framework you can copy now\n
- Delivery path narrowest width × height:
- Opening width, smallest of top, middle, bottom:
- Opening height to lowest obstruction:
- Opening depth, wall to counter front:
- Required clearances, top, back, sides, per manual:
- Maximum appliance width × height × depth after clearances:
- Hinge-side wall clearance or planned pull-forward:
- Front clearance versus “depth with door open 90 degrees”:
- Utilities: outlet location, water shutoff within about 1.8 m, pressure 207 to 827 kPa:
- Environment: indoor 13 to 43°C or garage-ready model needed:
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Energy and capacity, without the surprises

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Bigger generally uses more energy. Global guidance shows the most efficient sizes are often around 450 to 570 litres, and top-freezers tend to use the least energy for a given volume (ENERGY STAR). In AU and NZ you can compare running costs easily using the local Energy Rating Label. For capacity, a simple starting point is about 110 to 170 litres per person, then adjust for bulk shopping and meal prep habits (Samsung buying guide).

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If you want help, share your opening’s width, height, depth, nearby walls or islands, and whether you need water or ice. I will shortlist models that fit and flag any clearance risks before you buy. The shift to make is simple: stop measuring the fridge, and start measuring the space it has to live and breathe in. Your future self will thank you every time the door opens without a clunk.

Stop Guessing: Size Your Fridge Right