Why do similar-sized fridges feel so different inside?

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Interior layouts and ice makers are the details that change usable space.

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You’ve probably seen it: two fridges with the same headline capacity, yet one swallows the weekly shop and the other feels cramped by Tuesday. On paper, “25 cubic feet” (or “700 litres”) sounds precise. In real life, ice makers, drawers, and chunky shelf frames eat into that number.

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Here’s the curveball: what you see on spec sheets is total interior volume, not the space your groceries actually occupy. Independent testers often find real, usable storage is meaningfully lower than the headline figure. And when you compare outside size to inside volume, the interior commonly ends up around 60-75% of the exterior “box.”

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I’ve helped plenty of Kiwi and Aussie households pick fridges they don’t regret. One Christchurch couple upgraded from a tidy counter‑depth model to a standard‑depth a year later because platters and milk bottles never quite fit. Same “size” on paper, very different week-to-week experience.

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Are you chasing the wrong number?

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The biggest misconception is that more total capacity automatically means more usable space. Think of land size versus floor plan. Two houses can sit on the same section, but the one with smarter layout and fewer structural intrusions will feel bigger. Fridges are the same.

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Total capacity equals fresh-food volume plus freezer volume. Manufacturers must report it to strict rules and round to the nearest 0.1 cu ft. That standardises the number, but not how the space works for you.

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Better questions to ask:

How much of the total is fresh-food space versus freezer?
What’s taken up by fixed bits (ice maker, water filter, vents)?
How efficiently does the brand turn exterior size into interior volume?

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What do the numbers actually say?

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Total capacity is the sum of the fridge and freezer interiors. The reporting method is defined by government test procedures and rounded to 0.1 cu ft.
Usable storage is smaller because shelves, drawers, door bins, lights, ducting, ice/water systems, and internal mechanics sit inside that volume. Independent labs tally actual shelf and bin space to show what fits.
Expect meaningful differences between advertised and usable space. That’s why testers recommend focusing on layout and measured usable storage, not just a big cubic‑foot or litre figure.
Typical fresh/freezer split: many full‑size fridges devote about two‑thirds to fresh food and one‑third to freezer. Side‑by‑sides often skew more toward freezer but with narrower bays that struggle with wide items.
Counter‑depth looks sleek but often trades 10-20% interior capacity (and different geometry) compared with standard‑depth at the same width/height.

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Two real examples of exterior vs interior efficiency:

LG LMWS27626S: 35.75 in W × 68.5 in H × 27.875 in D (about 908 × 1740 × 708 mm) with 26.9 cu ft total. Exterior “box” ≈ 39.5 cu ft. Interior is about 68% of the box.
LG counter‑depth LRFLC2716S: 35.75 × 68.87 × 24.75 in (908 × 1750 × 629 mm), 26.5 cu ft total. Exterior “box” ≈ 35.3 cu ft. Interior is about 75% of the box.

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The takeaway: two fridges with similar totals can feel different because of what’s taken up inside and how efficiently the outer size turns into usable storage.

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What does the wrong choice feel like (and the right one)?

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Picture Friday arvo. You’ve got footy on, a supermarket run done, and friends on the way. The salad bowl balances on a half‑pulled crisper. Two 2‑litre milks fight the orange juice for door space. Someone opens the freezer and a rogue bag of chips swan-dives out. You close the door harder than you meant to. Annoyed? A bit embarrassed? Definitely.

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Now the right picture. The cheese board sits flat on a full‑width shelf. Tall bottles slot into a deep door bin. The leftover casserole has a clear landing spot. In the freezer, drawers let you put the ice cream on top and the family‑pack chips away from the fan cover. No Tetris, no sigh. Just easy.

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This isn’t just convenience. It’s less food waste because things aren’t jammed and forgotten, less time shopping mid‑week because you ran out of room, and less stress before guests arrive.

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How should you size a fridge now?

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Use the PLATE framework to get it right.

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P People: How many in the household today and likely in the next 3-5 years?
L Lifestyle: Bulk buying? Cook from scratch? Meal prep? Regular hosting?
A Access and layout: Wide shelves for platters? Tall door bins for 2‑litre bottles? Freezer drawers or shelves?
T Trade‑offs: Counter‑depth look vs capacity; internal water/ice vs lost space; door‑in‑door convenience vs reduced cavity.
E Envelope: The space the fridge must fit (width, height, depth), door swing clearance, ventilation gaps, and the path through doorways and stairs.

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A quick capacity starting point (adjust for lifestyle):

1-2 people: 12-16 cu ft (about 340-450 L). Heavy cooks/stock‑up: 16-20 cu ft (450-570 L).
3-4 people: 18-25 cu ft (510-710 L). Many families prefer 22-26 cu ft (620-740 L) for weekly shops.
5+ people or frequent entertainers: 25+ cu ft (710+ L), often plus a separate freezer.

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Questions to ask in-store or online:

What are the separate fresh and freezer litres/cubic feet?
Where is the ice maker and filter? How much shelf or bin space do they replace?
Will a 45 × 33 cm baking tray or a wide platter sit flat?
What’s the door bin height (will 2‑litre milk or tall bottles fit)?
Can I remove/adjust shelves to create one tall bay without blocking vents?

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So what should you actually do next?

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Follow this step‑by‑step process and you’ll avoid most regrets.

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\n Measure your space properly\n
- Width, height, and depth of the cavity. Add clearance for ventilation and door swing. In many NZ/AU kitchens, a 5-10 cm rear/top gap is typical-check the manual.
- Measure the delivery path: doorways, island benches, stairs, tight turns.
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\n Pick a capacity range by household and habits\n
- Start with the ranges above (convert to litres if that’s how your local retailer lists specs).
- Add 2-8 cu ft (60-225 L) if you bulk buy, cook for crowds, or entertain often.
- If you own a chest/upright freezer, you may lean smaller on total but make sure the fresh‑food space is still generous.
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\n Decide on layout early\n
- French‑door: great for wide shelves and flexible fresh storage; freezer drawers vary in organisation.
- Top‑freezer: often strong capacity value for size and price; freezer is wide but shorter.
- Side‑by‑side: more freezer percentage but narrow bays; check if your pizza box fits.
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\n Compare “box efficiency”\n
- Optional but revealing: calculate exterior box volume = width × height × depth (use cabinet depth without door/handles). Divide the stated interior volume by that number.
- Many full‑size fridges land around 60-75%. A higher percentage can indicate thinner walls or efficient packing; a lower one can flag thicker insulation or chunky internal mechanics. Use it to compare like‑for‑like.
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\n Inspect the interior for real fit\n
- Bring a large platter or pizza box to the showroom. Check shelf adjustability and whether moving a shelf blocks air vents.
- Check door bins: will two 2‑litre milks live there without hogging a shelf?
- Freezer: drawers (easy organisation) vs shelves (better for tall or odd items).
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\n Weigh features vs space\n
- Ice/water dispensers are brilliant, but they consume space. An internal water dispenser usually costs less interior than through‑door.
- Beverage/door‑in‑door compartments add convenience but shave capacity elsewhere. If capacity is critical, prioritise clean, open shelf space.
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\n Mind the counter‑depth trade\n
- Counter‑depth improves sightlines and traffic flow. You’ll likely give up some litres and a chunk of shelf depth. If you need both looks and space, go a width up (e.g., 90 cm wide rather than 83 cm) or choose a model with fewer internal intrusions.
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\n Factor energy and running costs\n
- Bigger generally uses more energy. In NZ/AU, compare the Energy Rating Label stars and annual kWh. A well‑sized, efficient fridge saves money every year.
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\n Sanity‑check fresh vs freezer split\n
- If you freeze garden produce, hunt, or buy bulk meat, prioritise freezer litres and the layout. If you’re a salad‑forward cook, bias towards fresh‑food space and wide shelves.
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\n Know the common pitfalls\n
- Don’t rely on a single headline litre/cubic‑foot number. Retail tags can differ and sometimes mix “gross” vs “net” claims. Look for fridge, freezer, and total numbers, then look inside.
- Don’t assume counter‑depth has “about the same” space as standard‑depth. Measure and compare.
- Don’t forget clearances. A right‑sized fridge that can’t open fully or vent properly won’t perform-or last-like it should.
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A quick refresher on how capacity is defined

Total capacity is the sum of the fresh‑food and freezer interiors. Manufacturers follow defined test procedures and round to the nearest 0.1 cu ft.
Independent testing of “usable storage” subtracts the bits you can’t fill with food-shelves, drawers, ice systems, vents-giving a truer picture of what actually fits.

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Your next move

Write down your PLATE answers.
Choose your target capacity range in litres/cubic feet.
Shortlist 2-3 models, calculate their exterior‑to‑interior efficiency, and then go see at least one in person with a platter, a tall bottle, and a tape measure.

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Do those three things and you’ll buy a fridge that fits your space, your shop, and your life-without playing shelf Tetris every week.

How Much Fridge Space Do You Really Get?