What exactly is ground clearance, and how do you measure it?

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Real-world encounters with speed humps and driveways are the best test of ground clearance.

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If you’ve ever crept over a speed hump outside a school or scraped on a sharp driveway into a shopping centre, you’ve met ground clearance the hard way. Officially, it’s the shortest vertical distance between the ground and the lowest fixed point under your vehicle, measured on flat ground with the car in standard condition and unloaded (sometimes called ride height) (Wikipedia - Ride height). In practice, you park on level ground, find the lowest rigid point (often a differential housing, subframe, or skid plate), and measure straight down with a tape. That brochure spec assumes stock tyres and no passengers or cargo; real-life loads, worn shocks, or different tyre diameters will change it noticeably (GoodCar).

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Why your mate’s “it’s got eight inches, you’ll be sweet” isn’t the full story

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Most buyers fixate on a single number. But clearance is just one piece. Your ability to tackle the world’s lumps and bumps also depends on approach angle (how steep you can climb without the front touching), departure angle (rear), and breakover angle (how sharp a crest you can straddle without belly‑beaching). Think of it like a backpacker ducking through a doorway: it’s not just how tall they are; it’s also how long the pack sticks out front and back. Long overhangs and a long wheelbase can undo generous clearance by reducing those angles (Jalopnik).

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Traditional logic says “get the highest you can afford.” That can lead to a car that feels tippy, drinks more, and still scrapes because the angles are poor. The better question is: what do you drive over most days? How much does your vehicle squat under real load? And where is your actual lowest rigid point? The lowest point might be an oil pan or diff pumpkin, which is less forgiving than a smooth skid plate. Ask these instead:

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What are the approach, departure, and breakover angles for this trim?
With my usual passengers and gear, what’s my measured clearance at the lowest rigid point?
Are critical bits (oil pan, battery pack on an EV, exhaust) protected?

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The facts that change how you choose

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Speed humps on public roads are typically about 75-100 mm (3-4 in) high and long; sharper speed bumps in car parks are often 75-150 mm (3-6 in) and much shorter. Low cars scrape more on short, steep profiles. Slower speeds and smarter angles help (FHWA).
Typical ground‑clearance ranges (unloaded, stock):\n
- Sedans/compact cars: roughly 115-165 mm (4.5-6.5 in). Many sport trims sit lower (Toyota lists Camry at about 145 mm/5.7 in) (Toyota; GoodCar).
- Crossovers/SUVs: mainstream family crossovers around 165-230 mm (6.5-9.0 in). Off‑road‑oriented trims often 230-300+ mm (9-12 in). Toyota RAV4 trims sit about 206-218 mm (8.1-8.6 in) (Toyota RAV4 specs).
- Utes/pickups: many stock models come in around 200-280 mm (8-11 in); off‑road variants can reach 280-355+ mm (11-14 in+) (Ford F‑150).
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Real‑world clearance drops under load. Passengers, a boot full of gear, or towball weight can lower the rear enough to change what scrapes and where. Re‑measure loaded if you carry often (Wikipedia - Ride height).
For proper off‑road tracks, many experts consider around 215 mm (8.5 in) or more a sensible starting point, but angles and underbody protection can be more decisive than the raw number (GoodCar; Jalopnik).

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What this means for decision‑making: bad picks cost money (underbody repairs), time (slow, stressful approaches to everyday obstacles), and confidence. The surprise is that the best “clearance” for your life might be better geometry and smarter protection, not simply a taller stance.

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Small scrapes are the everyday cost of mismatched clearance and angles.

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How it feels when you get it wrong (and right)

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Picture a Saturday at Bunnings. You creep towards a short, sharp bump. There’s a hollow plastic scrape you can feel through the seat. You wince, pull over, and see a fresh scuff on the undertray. Not a disaster, but there goes your good mood, and you’ll baby every bump for weeks.

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Now imagine the winter run to the ski fields or a summer trip to a gravel bach driveway. A low‑slung sedan, fully loaded, bottoms out at the crest where the driveway meets the road. You’re stuck, wheels spinning, a queue growing behind you. Compare that with a wagon running modest clearance, decent approach and departure angles, and simple skid plates. Same driveway, no drama. The right choice is less about bragging rights and more about peace of mind: protecting the bits you can’t see, keeping your passengers comfortable, and not thinking twice when a storm leaves debris across a rural road.

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How much clearance do different vehicles actually have?

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Sedans/compact cars: 115-165 mm (4.5-6.5 in). Sporty variants often sit lower. Expect careful angles on sharp bumps, garage ramps, and ferry ramps (Wikipedia; Toyota).
Family crossovers/SUVs: 165-230 mm (6.5-9.0 in). Enough for most NZ/AU gravel roads, the odd rutted campsite, and deeper stormwater rills. RAV4 trims sit about 206-218 mm (8.1-8.6 in) (Toyota RAV4).
Off‑road‑focused SUVs/utes: 230-300+ mm (9-12 in+). Purpose‑built for trails, beach access (where legal), and rocky access roads, but check angles and protection, not just height (Jalopnik; Ford F‑150).

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How do you drive smarter over bumps and rough roads?

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Know your number. Measure at the lowest rigid point, both empty and with your usual load (GoodCar).
On short, steep speed bumps: slow to walking pace and go squarely; on long humps, a slight angle lets one wheel at a time climb, reducing belly contact (FHWA).
For sharp driveway lips and parking‑garage ramps: approach at a shallow angle so only one wheel negotiates the lip at a time.
Mind the load. A boot full of camping gear or a trailer can drop the rear enough to scrape; consider re‑measuring and, if needed, bump stop upgrades or air‑assisted springs (Wikipedia - Ride height).
Tyres and suspension changes alter clearance. Larger tyre diameters lift the vehicle; worn springs or deflated air suspension lower it. Re‑measure after changes (GoodCar).

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Are lifts and bigger tyres worth it?

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What lifts do: suspension or body lifts raise static clearance and may let you run larger tyres, improving approach/departure/breakover angles and obstacle clearance. A front “leveling kit” mainly evens stance and modestly improves approach (Morris4x4).

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The trade‑offs:

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Higher centre of gravity can mean more body roll and higher rollover risk. Larger, heavier tyres lengthen stopping distances and usually hurt fuel economy. Poorly set‑up lifts can accelerate wear on CV joints, driveshafts, and steering components (Morris4x4).
Warranty and legalities depend on where you live and what’s modified. In the US, Magnuson‑Moss prevents blanket warranty voids for aftermarket parts, though failures caused by the mod can be excluded (FTC). In AU/NZ, check your manufacturer’s warranty terms and local certification rules before modifying; keep documentation of professional installs and alignments.

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Is higher always better?

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Not always. More clearance helps with obstacles, snow, ruts, and light fording, but usually costs you on‑road handling and fuel economy. Some crossovers market “SUV height” yet lack the angles, tyres, or skid plates for serious trails. Off‑road capability is a system: clearance, geometry, traction, and protection all matter (GoodCar; Jalopnik; Toyota RAV4). EVs add a wrinkle: their battery packs sit low for stability but place expensive components near the ground; many use adjustable air suspension to add height when needed. If that’s your world, check model‑specifics closely (Wikipedia - Ride height).

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A simple way to choose better: use the TRACK framework

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Terrain: Map your real obstacles. List the speed humps, carpark ramps, gravel tracks, boat ramps, and driveways you actually encounter.
Real clearance: Measure your lowest rigid point empty and loaded. Note how much it drops.
Angles: Check approach, departure, and breakover. Long overhangs and wheelbase can undo a tall number (Jalopnik).
Components/coverage: Identify vulnerable parts (oil pan, diff, exhaust, EV battery) and whether they’re protected by skid plates.
Know‑how: Use speed and angle technique. Practice wheel‑at‑a‑time approaches on sharp lips (FHWA).

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Questions to ask a salesperson or in spec sheets:

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What are the approach/departure/breakover angles for this exact trim and tyre size?
Where is the vehicle’s lowest rigid point?
Are there factory skid plates or accessory options?

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Step-by-step: how to buy or set up the right vehicle without regrets

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\n Assess your life, not a fantasy.\n If your week is school runs and the odd corrugated gravel road, a crossover around 190-220 mm with sensible angles might be perfect. If you tow or do beach launches, aim higher and consider protection for vulnerable bits.\n
\n Check the numbers per trim.\n Ground clearance can change with tyres and body kits across trims. For example, RAV4 trims vary by around 12 mm (8.1-8.6 in) (Toyota RAV4). Confirm for the exact wheels/tyres fitted on the car you’re buying.\n
\n Measure your current car.\n Empty and with your typical load. Compare that real figure with the obstacles you face: most public speed humps are about 75-100 mm; private bumps can be up to 150 mm and much sharper (FHWA).\n
\n Test drive the route that worries you.\n Ask the dealer to let you crawl over a nearby speed hump and a steep driveway. Listen for contact and feel for suspension bottoming.\n
\n Prioritise angles and protection.\n If you’re between two vehicles, the one with better approach and departure angles and basic skid plates will usually scrape less than the taller one with long overhangs (Jalopnik).\n
\n Plan mods, if any, with eyes open.\n
- Light off‑road use: all‑terrain tyres in stock size, a front skid plate, and a small levelling kit can transform confidence with minimal downsides (Morris4x4).
- Serious tracks: a quality suspension lift and larger tyres may be warranted, but budget for alignment, potential driveline changes, and recalibration. Expect some fuel‑economy and braking trade‑offs (Morris4x4).
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\n Keep the balance right for you.\n
- Urban/parking‑garage life: 140-170 mm can work if you drive smart, but sharp bumps and ramps require care. A slightly taller spec can save daily hassle.
- Family crossover buyers (gravel roads, camping): 190-230 mm plus decent angles is a sweet spot in NZ/AU. Add a front skid plate if you visit rocky sites (Toyota RAV4; GoodCar).
- Regular off‑roaders and towers: 230-300+ mm with robust angles and underbody protection. Consider low‑range gearing and recovery points alongside clearance (Jalopnik).
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\n Re‑measure after any change.\n New tyres, towing gear, or suspension settling will shift your real clearance. Update how you attack bumps and ramps accordingly (GoodCar; Wikipedia - Ride height).\n

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Lifts and larger tyres change clearance but bring handling and warranty trade-offs.

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The perspective shift to keep

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Stop buying the tallest number. Start buying the right geometry, measured in your real life, with the protection your roads demand.

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That’s how you avoid scrapes, save money, and feel relaxed every time you roll towards a bump.

Ground Clearance: What Really Matters in NZ/AU