Why does a “bigger litre number” sometimes carry less?

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Opening size and sill height often matter more than the headline litre figure.

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You buy the SUV with a proud 500‑litre boot, then discover your stroller, chilli bin and a week’s groceries play Tetris at best. You’re not alone. There’s no single global standard for measuring cargo space, and carmakers often choose whatever method flatters their vehicle.

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Here’s the kicker: reviewers who load real suitcases frequently find a car with a smaller published number fits more bags than one with a bigger number. I’ve seen a 430 L hatch swallow more luggage than a “480 L” sedan because of the hatch opening and roof height.

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Think of litres as the weather forecast. Helpful, but not the same as standing outside. To avoid buyer’s regret, you need to know what those numbers actually mean-and what to check in person.

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What should you actually compare instead of just litres?

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The most common mistake is treating litres like truth serum. “Higher number = bigger boot” feels logical, but it can mislead. Cargo measurements can be taken up to different boundaries (to the top of the seatbacks or all the way to the roof) and using different fill methods. Some count tiny nooks you can’t use with a suitcase.

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Flip the logic. You’re not buying litres; you’re buying the ability to move your stuff, easily and safely. That means focusing on the hole you load through, the shape of the space, and how the seats and floor transform, not just the raw spec.

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Good questions to ask yourself or a salesperson:

How was it measured-VDA blocks or an SAE/other method? Is it to the seatbacks or to the roof?
What are the hatch opening dimensions and the sill height?
Do the rear seats fold flat, and what’s the split (60:40 or 40:20:40)?

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What do the standards and units actually mean?

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Two big approaches sit behind the brochure numbers.

VDA (common in Europe and used or referenced by many brands here): the cargo area is physically filled with rigid 200 × 100 × 50 mm blocks. Each block equals 1 litre. Because the blocks mimic real boxes, VDA usually reflects what luggage you can truly carry. Ford Australia’s owner guidance explains this method clearly.
SAE J1100 and other North American practices: rules exist, but measurement can include sand or rice fills or dimensional calculations. These can produce larger numbers because they “flow” into cavities your bags won’t. Consumer explainers and auto journalists have shown how this inflates specs relative to VDA.

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Units: you’ll see litres here in NZ/AU and cubic feet in US sources. Convert with 1 cubic foot ≈ 28.3168 litres. Example: 15.7 cu ft ≈ 444 L.

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Body style also changes how numbers are quoted and how the space works:

Sedans (boots): usually measured as an enclosed volume behind the rear seats. Openings can be tight, so tall/bulky items are hard even if litres sound decent.
Hatchbacks and wagons: often quoted “seats up” (to top of seatbacks) and “max” (to roof with seats folded). Larger opening and vertical space make them feel roomier.
SUVs/crossovers: like hatches, with figures quoted behind the second row and “max” with seats flat. Boxy shapes are friendlier for prams, bikes, and flat-pack.
Minivans/MPVs: kings of flexibility-removable or stowable seats mean enormous maximum volumes and lots of tie-downs.
Utes (pickups): beds are measured by length × width × height, sometimes in cubic feet. Remember wheel-arch intrusions and whether a liner/tonneau alters usable width or height.

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Typical “seats-up” ranges to orient you (designs vary, so treat these as ballpark):

Small city hatch: ~200-350 L
Compact/mid hatch and small sedan: ~300-450 L
Compact SUV: ~400-600 L
Midsize SUV: ~500-800 L, often 1,500 L+ seats folded
Minivan/large MPV: ~700-3,000+ L depending on seats stowed/removed

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What’s the real‑world cost of getting this wrong?

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Picture this. Saturday shop at Pak’nSave or Coles, kids in the second row, sports gear already onboard. You pop the tailgate and meet a high load lip, a narrow opening and a parcel shelf that has nowhere to go. The pram needs a full re-pack, the dog’s lead is tangled in the suitcase zip, and now the tailgate won’t close. You’re late to sport, and your back feels it.

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Now flip it. A car with a slightly smaller litre figure but a low sill, wide opening, and a flat folded floor swallows the same load in one smooth motion. The chilly bin slides straight in. The surfboard sits diagonally with a 40:20:40 split. Nothing shifts on the drive to the Coromandel or the Mornington Peninsula. That’s not just convenience; it’s a calmer, safer weekend.

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Real testers know this. That’s why suitcase-count tests are so common-because they mirror how you live.

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How do you judge boot space the smart way?

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Use the LIFT framework. It turns “nice number” into “right fit.”

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L L = Litres that match method Ask: VDA or not? To the seatbacks or roof? If it’s unclear, treat the number as directional and compare within the same body style.
I I = Ingress and sill Measure the opening width/height and the load lip. Big hole + low sill = fewer swear words and fewer scratched bumpers.
F F = Flexibility Look for split-folding (40:20:40 is gold if you carry long items + passengers), sliding second row, and a flat load floor when folded.
T T = True shape and tie‑downs Rectangular floors pack better than curvy ones with wheel-arch bulges. Check for intrusions, underfloor storage, and proper tie-downs to secure heavy gear.

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Five quick questions to ask a salesperson or check in specs:

Which measurement method is used, and to what height?
What are the hatch opening dimensions and sill height?
Do the seats fold flat, and what’s the split?
Is there underfloor storage or a spare wheel that steals space?
Where are the tie-down points, and can the cargo cover be removed or stored?

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What’s the step‑by‑step to pick the right car for your gear?

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\n Start with like‑for‑like numbers\n Compare “seats up” litres within the same body style and, ideally, the same method. If you see VDA for both, great-more apples-to-apples. If one brand doesn’t state the method, mentally discount the headline and look harder at shape and access.\n
\n Read a real‑world cargo test\n Suitcase or box-count tests from reputable reviewers are gold. They reveal how shapes and openings affect what actually fits.\n
\n Measure the opening and the sill\n Bring a tape measure. Note hatch width/height and the vertical height of the load lip. If you often lift heavy items (toolboxes, e‑bikes), a low or flush sill matters more than 30 “extra” litres.\n
\n Test the transformation\n Fold the seats. Is the floor flat or stepped? Can one person drop the seats from the boot? Is there a ski/pass-through? If you carry people and cargo together, these features trump a big “max” number you’ll seldom use.\n
\n Do a real‑item trial\n Take the biggest item you regularly carry: a pram, golf clubs, a bike front wheel, or a flat pack from Bunnings/Mitre 10. Load it with seats up and then folded. If you’re shopping online, use interior dimensions (length to seatbacks, width between wheel arches, height to roof) against your item.\n
\n Mind the body style trade‑offs\n Tall/bulky items: favour hatch/SUV/wagon geometry, wide aperture and a flat folded floor over raw litres. Mostly luggage: VDA-like measurements and suitcase tests map well to real travel. Passengers + cargo: prioritise 40:20:40 splits and sliding second rows. Utes: check width between the wheel arches (will a pallet fit?), bed length with the tailgate shut, and how a liner or tonneau changes usable space.\n

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Quick in‑person checklist

Tape measure (opening width/height, depth to seatbacks, sill height).
One large and one small suitcase or box to test stacking.
Confirm seat-fold type and whether the floor is flat.
Look for intrusions, underfloor storage, spare-wheel impact.
Check tie‑downs, cargo cover removability, and power/hand‑free tailgate.
Close the tailgate on your test load to confirm clearance.

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Measure the aperture and sill; the numbers are what you’ll actually use.

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Conversion cheat

- US spec in cubic feet? Multiply by 28.3168 to get litres.

- Example: 15.7 cu ft ≈ 444 L.

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Common pitfalls to avoid

Chasing a single big litre number without asking “how measured?” and “to where?”
Overweighting “max with seats down” if you rarely fold seats in daily life.
Ignoring the aperture and sill-the most common reasons something doesn’t fit or hurts to load.

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Putting it all together for typical buyers

City runabout: a 300-350 L hatch with a wide opening and low sill may beat a larger-number sedan day-to-day.
Young family: target a compact/midsize SUV with 500-650 L seats up, a low sill, 40:20:40 split, and a flat fold for prams and scooters.
Adventure couple: look for wagon/SUVs that pass the bike and surfboard test; roof-to-seatback measurement clarity matters.
Tradie with a ute: verify between-arch width, anchor points, bed height, and whether your toolboxes clear a tonneau.

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Don’t buy a number. Buy the ability to carry your life with less strain and fewer compromises. Ask how litres were measured. Measure the opening and sill. Test flexibility and shape. Then choose the car that makes your real gear, in your real weeks, easy.

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Your next step is simple: bring a tape measure and your bulkiest item to the dealership, or line up a trusted reviewer’s suitcase test alongside the specs. If a salesperson can’t tell you whether the figure is VDA and whether it’s to the seatbacks or the roof, treat the number as a rough guide-and trust the LIFT checks you can see and feel.

Compare Boot Space Like a Pro